Grooming your Cocker Spaniel
I am often
asked for tips on grooming and coat care, so have decided to write a page on
the basics of grooming, not trimming, this is really best left to an
experienced groomer.
I start
grooming our puppies from as early as two to three weeks old. The pups are
handled daily, stroked and a small fine tooth comb gently combed through their
soft fine coat. By the time the pups are around
five to six weeks old i start to gently open their mouths to check their teeth,
I examine their ears daily
also and gently wipe around the inside with a soft cotton bud. This helps to get them used to handling and eventually (hopefully) teeth
cleaning and ear cleaning as they get older, it is also a great help to your vet, as they will
usually want to check your puppies mouth and ears, to make sure there are no problems
when you take your puppy for his/her first injections. If
your puppy wriggles about in the early weeks when you are checking ears, teeth
etc. Wrap them up comfortably, but securely in a towel, this will usually help to
keep them still, so that you can continue grooming without causing too much
distress to your puppy, eventually as your puppy gets used to the routine, you
won’t need the towel.
It is never
too early to bath and brush your puppy, i am often asked ‘when should i bath my
puppy’, the simple answer is, when they are dirty. Just make sure that your
puppy is thoroughly dried and doesn’t become chilled after bathing. My puppies
are all bathed at least once before they leave for their new homes, puppies walk
through their food, often smear it all over themselves and their litter mates
during weaning, they often walk, run through, or sit in something that you
would rather they didn’t, this is usually unavoidable and we can’t put nappies or
bibs on puppies can we, but they would have fun taking them off, chewing and playing
tug of war with them!
Brush your
puppy daily, i start by placing them on a level surface (grooming table) you
could use any table really but make sure the surface isn’t slippery or your
puppy will not be able to relax and won’t feel confident with the routine, you
could use a rubber car mat placed on your table. I usually start off by lying
puppy on his/her back to get them used to being groomed underneath, since these
are the areas that will tend to matt and become uncomfortable as the coat grows.
They will struggle at first as this is a vulnerable position for a puppy/dog to
be in, but for the early days i make do with just gently stroking their tummy
and talking to them in a gentle tone to reassure them that this routine is an
enjoyable one, eventually they do start to relax and enjoy the routine. Using a
soft brush and comb in the early days will suffice, but as your puppy grows
older and the coat longer, you should start to use a bristle brush and comb or
a slicker brush and comb. Brush and comb out well between the back legs,
carefully to avoid painful tugging if there are any small knots or matt’s, then
brush and comb gently, up towards their tummy and towards their front legs. I
make sure to comb out well underneath the front legs and chest as this is where
most small knots and matt’s if there are any, can be found. The fluffy and
sometimes profuse puppy coat will matt very quickly and easily in these areas, even
if your puppy isn’t a typical bouncy, rough and tumble Cocker! When the
underneath areas are thoroughly groomed, sit your puppy up and start combing
the head and ears, again gently to avoid tugging any small knots or matt’s that
could be behind or on the ears. Cockers ears are generally used to trail
through their dinner and water bowl to (even when you use a spaniel bowl
sometimes!) sweep up the ground when they are outside exercising and used to
bring home twigs, leaves, mud and anything really that will adhere to the ear feathering
trailing along the ground. On the subject of ears, be very careful when
exercising your Cocker, to avoid grass seeds, these will cling to your Cockers
ears and sometimes get inside the ear canal, once this happens, you will have
to visit your vet to have the grass seed removed, not nice for your dog and can
cause a great deal of pain and discomfort until removed. Make sure to check
your puppy/dogs ears and coat for these seeds after exercising. When the head,
ears and front feathering of your puppy/dog are thoroughly brushed and combed,
stand him/her up and continue brushing down the neck and back, whilst they are
standing you can comb or brush the feathering on their tummy and legs. When you
have finished grooming, praise your puppy/dog and take him/her down from the
table. Your puppy/dog will soon get used to this routine and may eventually start
to remind you that it is grooming time (mine do) as they enjoy this individual attention
so much and they will feel good afterwards too, don’t we when we have just been
to the hairdressers?
When your puppy is ready for his/her first haircut, at around five to six
months old, or older, (depending on coat) he/she shouldn’t be distressed as he/she
will be used to the handling and grooming routine and should be a pleasure for
the groomer to strip/trim.
NOTE; I don’t
trim dogs for anyone else, due to the time involved, having to work part time
and having my own dogs to groom and trim, but have been known to help out a friend
or two occasionally!! For advice about trimming, ask your puppies’ breeder they
may offer a grooming service, or be able to recommend a reputable groomer to
you. Your veterinary practice may also be able to recommend a reputable groomer
to you
Below are some links, where you can find basic grooming products and much more, for your Cocker.